The Differences Between Vintage Sewing Machines.

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The overwhelming majority of beginners think machines made before 1960 are all metal and made to last forever. However, this couldn’t be any further from the truth. Honestly, there are many differences between vintage sewing machines. And, not all vintage machines are of the same quality.

Differences in power train (for lack of better terms)

Belt driven

The most common type of sewing machine is a belt driven one. This kind of machine has one belt that transfers power from the motor to the sewing machine needle.

Belt with pully reduction system

Single belt sewing machines loose power in the transference of power between the motor and belt. For this reason, manufacturers started producing machines with one belt and multiple pulleys. Two and three pully machines slow speed and increase torque. Hence, the machine runs smoother and with more force than a single belted one.

Gear driven

The best way to increase torque and speed is to eliminate the belt altogether. This can be accomplished by giving the motor a worm gear and creating other gears, which work in tandem to transfer energy to the needle. One primary example of this motor configuration is the Singer 201 or the Singer 404.

Rubber drive wheel

The secondary method for eliminating the belt is to add a rubber wheel onto the motor. When the motor runs, it turns the wheel. Then, this momentum is transferred to the fly wheel and later to the needle. This motor configuration is a little less common than a worm gear, but it still works pretty well. However, it doesn’t work as well because you can get slippage.

Varying Hooks

The differences between vintage sewing machines don’t end with just the motor because hook configurations can vary too.

Oscillating hook

The hook moves back and forth in a half rotation rather than making a full circle. Since the hook has to swing back in order to make the next stitch, this sort of sewing machine goes slower than other types of sewing machines. Just to give an idea of the speed range, this sort of machine ranges between 700 and 850spm.

Rotary hook

With this type of machine, the hook makes a full rotation around the bobbin. Since there is nothing impeding the start of the next stitch, this kind of sewing machine can go super fast. On average, these machines go 1000spm or more.

Upper thread path rotary

Upper rotary machines are very rare in the domestic sewing machine world. In an upper rotary machine, the take up lever doesn’t go up and down.

Instead, there is a rotary disc to guide thread. This supposedly eliminates the possibility of thread catching or snagging. However, I don’t see this configuration as one that would significantly increase speed.

Differences In Quality

Store branded cheap vintage sewing machines

Generally speaking, cheap sewing machines have an oscillating hook with a single belt. Likewise, you’ll find rugged internal parts on cheap vintage machines. Rugged parts make machines run rough and sound louder. For the most part, rugged internal parts aren’t that big of a deal.

However, there are times when you will find a vintage sewing machine with nylon or even Bakelite cams and/or gears. These sorts of internal parts are of concern because they break down over time and cause major problems.

Premium high quality vintage machines

On premium machines, you’ll find multiple belts, a direct drive configuration, or a rubber drive wheel. Also, you’ll often find more finely milled internal parts and a full rotary hook for speed.

While metal parts are common on high quality machines made before 1970, there is no guarantee. For this reason, you have to do great research to find out what is on the inside of your vintage sewing machine. Bakelite, nylon, or plastic aren’t ideal. But, these material aren’t total deal breakers.

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